Tuesday, April 30, 2013

Vein Opener - Try It



I have received this mail, but would like to share it again with more details from the last one which I had sent earlier. As I said I had seen it before, but this time it has been tried by the sender and it worked. As it is all natural ingredients I am sure if any one tries it out it there is no harm.

Are You Suffering from Heart Diseases?

Or have you been advised to undergo Angiography or Bypass?

Please Wait.....

Before you undergo Angiography or Bypass treatment, you must try with confidence this remedy. I Hope, you will be cured;

On the 18th April last year, I had to go to Sahiwaal(Pakistan) from the UK to attend the annual Khatme-e-Nabuwat conference. The day before I suffered acute pain at the place of my heart and thereafter, experienced uncomforting which continued for quite some time. I then met in Pakistan Hazrat Moulana Bashir Ahmed Usmani Sahib and disclosed to him, that when the doctors performed Angiography on me, they advised Bypass as they discovered 3 of my arteries were blocked and given a date to operate after a month.

During this period, a Hakim prescribed the remedy below which I consumed exactly for a month. A day before my bypass operation, I arrived at the Cardiology Hospital in Lahore  (Pakistan) and deposited Pak Rs. 225,000.00 towards expenses for my Bypass surgery. After taking a close look at these results and my previous results, the Doctors then asked me if I took any medication after the previous tests were carried out.

I told them of Hakim Sahebs prescribed remedy. The panel of Doctors, surprised by the results, then informed me that according to the latest reports all 3 arteries were open and functioning normally and that surgery was not required. I was refunded my deposit and told to go home.

Hazrat Moulana Bashir Ahmed Usmani Saheb himself, prepared this medicine for me and also told me of it’s ingredients and how it is prepared which is as follows:

1 cup Fresh Lemon juice
1 cup Fresh Ginger juice
1 cup Fresh Garlic juice
1 cup Apple cider vinegar
3 Cups Honey








Mix/boil all the juices & vinegar and simmer in low heat slowly for about half an hour until solution reduces to 3 cups.  (1 cup of contents evaporate - 4:3).  After it cools down, mix properly with the 3 cups of honey. Fill contents in a clean Jar and take 1 tablespoon on an empty stomach every morning.

You will be cured. Your vein’s blockage will open in most cases. Enjoy your drink. Taste good too.

Lenses for Nikon D800E that offer excellent resolution



List recomended lenses for Nikon D800E that offer excellent resolution from Nikon website:

    AF-S NIKKOR 14-24mm f/2.8G ED
    AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8G ED
    AF-S NIKKOR 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II
    AF-S NIKKOR 70-200mm f/4G ED VR
    AF-S NIKKOR 16-35mm f/4G ED VR
    AF-S NIKKOR 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5G ED VR
    AF-S NIKKOR 24-120mm f/4G ED VR
    AF-S NIKKOR 200-400mm f/4G ED VR II
    AF-S NIKKOR 24mm f/1.4G ED
    AF-S NIKKOR 28mm f/1.8G
    AF-S NIKKOR 35mm f/1.4G
    AF-S NIKKOR 85mm f/1.4G
    AF-S NIKKOR 85mm f/1.8G
    AF-S NIKKOR 200mm f/2G ED VR II
    AF-S NIKKOR 300mm f/2.8G ED VR II
    AF-S NIKKOR 400mm f/2.8G ED VR
    AF-S NIKKOR 500mm f/4G ED VR
    AF-S NIKKOR 600mm f/4G ED VR
    AF-S Micro NIKKOR 60mm f/2.8G ED
    AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED
    PC-E NIKKOR 24mm f/3.5D ED
    PC-E Micro NIKKOR 45mm f/2.8D ED
    PC-E Micro NIKKOR 85mm f/2.8D


Related Post:  
Nikon D5200 / D5100 / D5000 / D3200 / D3100 / D3000 / D60 / D40 Compatible Lenses

Wednesday, April 24, 2013

Girl Next Door



click the picture to enlarge

Camera : Nikon D90
Lense : AF 85mm f/1.8 D
F Stop : 2
Speed : 1/1000
ISO : 200



Tuesday, April 23, 2013

Retro Look With Curves



Go to Layer → New Adjustment Layer → Curves and switch from RGB to Reds. Then drag the line downwards a little for the shadows and upwards for the highlights, creating a slight “S” curve. Do the same for the Greens. For the Blues, drag the highlights down a little and the shadows up (for an inverted S shape). The shadows should now be slightly blue-ish, the highlights slightly yellow-ish.



Create a new layer with Shift + Control/Command + N, and fill it with #000066 (RGB 0, 0, 102). Set the blending mode to “Exclusion.” Now copy the background layer by clicking it and pressing Control/Command + J. Set the blending mode for this copy to “Soft Light.”

To decrease the effect overall, activate the top-most layer and then click on the background copy while holding the Shift key, thereby selecting both layers. Alternatively, you can add them to a group with Control/Command + G. Reduce the layer’s (or group’s) opacity. Note that in Photoshop versions prior to CS5, you’ll have to reduce the opacity for each layer individually.

Monday, April 22, 2013

MOTOGP RESULT GRAND PRIX OF AMERICAS. April 21, 2013. Marc Marquest becomes the youngest MotoGP Winner.



MOTOGP RESULT GRAND PRIX OF AMERICAS.  April 21, 2013. Marc Marquest becomes the youngest MotoGP Winner.

1. Marc MARQUEZ    SPA    Repsol Honda Team    Honda    158.9    43'42.123
2. Dani PEDROSA    SPA    Repsol Honda Team    Honda    158.8    +1.534
3. Jorge LORENZO    SPA    Yamaha Factory Racing    Yamaha    158.7    +3.381
4. Cal CRUTCHLOW    GBR    Monster Yamaha Tech 3    Yamaha    158.5    +6.616
5. Stefan BRADL    GER    LCR Honda MotoGP    Honda    158.1    +12.674
6. Valentino ROSSI    ITA    Yamaha Factory Racing    Yamaha    157.9    +16.615
7. Andrea DOVIZIOSO    ITA    Ducati Team    Ducati    157.6    +22.374
8. Alvaro BAUTISTA    SPA    GO&FUN Honda Gresini    Honda    157.5    +22.854
9. Nicky HAYDEN    USA    Ducati Team    Ducati    156.9    +33.773
10. Andrea IANNONE    ITA    Energy T.I. Pramac Racing    Ducati    156.4    +42.112
11. Aleix ESPARGARO    SPA    Power Electronics Aspar    ART    156.0    +48.837
12. Bradley SMITH    GBR    Monster Yamaha Tech 3    Yamaha    155.9    +50.705
13. Ben SPIES    USA    Ignite Pramac Racing    Ducati    154.5    +1'14.132
14. Randy DE PUNIET    FRA    Power Electronics Aspar    ART    154.4    +1'15.651
15. Yonny HERNANDEZ    COL    Paul Bird Motorsport    ART    154.2    +1'19.591
16. Michael LAVERTY    GBR    Paul Bird Motorsport    PBM    153.4    +1'34.391
17. Hiroshi AOYAMA    JPN    Avintia Blusens    FTR    153.1    +1'39.823
18. Hector BARBERA    SPA    Avintia Blusens    FTR    153.1    +1'39.952
19. Claudio CORTI    ITA    NGM Mobile Forward Racing    FTR Kawasaki    152.7    +1'46.773
20. Bryan STARING    AUS    GO&FUN Honda Gresini    FTR Honda    152.6    +1'48.084
21. Blake YOUNG    USA    Attack Performance Racing    APR    151.1    1 Lap

Not Classified
9    Danilo PETRUCCI    ITA    Came IodaRacing Project    Ioda-Suter    152.4    8 Laps
52    Lukas PESEK    CZE    Came IodaRacing Project    Ioda-Suter    152.4    8 Laps
5    Colin EDWARDS    USA    NGM Mobile Forward Racing    FTR Kawasaki    149.7    10 Laps

F1 RESULT GRAND PRIX OF FORMULA 1 BAHRAIN. April 21, 2013. Sebastian Vettel flying to 1st podium.



F1 RESULT GRAND PRIX OF FORMULA 1 BAHRAIN. April 21, 2013. Sebastian Vettel flying to 1st podium.

1. Sebastian Vettel     Red Bull Racing-Renault     57     Winner     2     25
2. Kimi Räikkönen     Lotus-Renault     57     +9.1 secs     8     18
3. Romain Grosjean     Lotus-Renault     57     +19.5 secs     11     15
4. Paul di Resta     Force India-Mercedes     57     +21.7 secs     5     12
5. Lewis Hamilton     Mercedes     57     +35.2 secs     9     10
6. Sergio Perez     McLaren-Mercedes     57     +35.9 secs     12     8
7. Mark Webber     Red Bull Racing-Renault     57     +37.2 secs     7     6
8. Fernando Alonso     Ferrari     57     +37.5 secs     3     4
9. Nico Rosberg     Mercedes     57     +41.1 secs     1     2
10. Jenson Button     McLaren-Mercedes     57     +46.6 secs     10     1
11. Pastor Maldonado     Williams-Renault     57     +66.4 secs     17    
12. Nico Hulkenberg     Sauber-Ferrari     57     +72.9 secs     14    
13. Adrian Sutil     Force India-Mercedes     57     +76.7 secs     6    
14. Valtteri Bottas     Williams-Renault     57     +81.5 secs     15    
15. Felipe Massa     Ferrari     57     +86.3 secs     4    
16. Daniel Ricciardo     STR-Ferrari     56     +1 Lap     13    
17. Charles Pic     Caterham-Renault     56     +1 Lap     18    
18. Esteban Gutierrez     Sauber-Ferrari     56     +1 Lap     22    
19. Jules Bianchi     Marussia-Cosworth     56     +1 Lap     19    
20. Max Chilton     Marussia-Cosworth     56     +1 Lap     21    
21. Giedo van der Garde     Caterham-Renault     55     +2 Laps     20    
Ret     18     Jean-Eric Vergne     STR-Ferrari     16     Accident damage     16

Sunday, April 14, 2013



F1 RESULT GRAND PRIX OF FORMULA 1 CHINESE. April 14, 2013. Fernando Alonso give Ferrari first podion for this seasson.

1. Fernando Alonso     Ferrari     56     1:36:26.945     3     25
2. Kimi Räikkönen     Lotus-Renault     56     +10.1 secs     2     18
3. Lewis Hamilton     Mercedes     56     +12.3 secs     1     15
4. Sebastian Vettel     Red Bull Racing-Renault     56     +12.5 secs     9     12
5. Jenson Button     McLaren-Mercedes     56     +35.2 secs     8     10
6. Felipe Massa     Ferrari     56     +40.8 secs     5     8
7. Daniel Ricciardo     STR-Ferrari     56     +42.6 secs     7     6
8. Paul di Resta     Force India-Mercedes     56     +51.0 secs     11     4
9. Romain Grosjean     Lotus-Renault     56     +53.4 secs     6     2
10. Nico Hulkenberg     Sauber-Ferrari     56     +56.5 secs     10     1
11. Sergio Perez     McLaren-Mercedes     56     +63.8 secs     12    
12. Jean-Eric Vergne     STR-Ferrari     56     +72.6 secs     15    
13. Valtteri Bottas     Williams-Renault     56     +93.8 secs     16    
14. Pastor Maldonado     Williams-Renault     56     +95.4 secs     14    
15. Jules Bianchi     Marussia-Cosworth     55     +1 Lap     18    
16. Charles Pic     Caterham-Renault     55     +1 Lap     20    
17. Max Chilton     Marussia-Cosworth     55     +1 Lap     19    
18. Giedo van der Garde     Caterham-Renault     55     +1 Lap     21    
Ret     9     Nico Rosberg     Mercedes     21     Suspension     4    
Ret     2     Mark Webber     Red Bull Racing-Renault     15     Wheel     22    
Ret     15     Adrian Sutil     Force India-Mercedes     5     Accident     13    
Ret     12     Esteban Gutierrez     Sauber-Ferrari     4     Accident     17

Friday, April 12, 2013

Photography Tips To Make Sharper Images (Part 4: Moving Subjects) by: Martin Bailey



If your subject is moving around, select AI Servo on a Canon camera or Continuous Servo mode on a Nikon camera. When using continuous focus, most cameras will lock onto your subject with one active focus point—often selectable—and then use all focus points to track the subject. This allows you to recompose your photo once you have your subject in focus. This is also useful when it’s dif!cult to keep the subject in the same place, like when tracking birds in "ight or a soccer player darting around the pitch.

Continuous focus works best when the subject is over a plain background. When there is a lot of texture or contrast in the background, the camera sometimes loses focus on your subject, usually at a critical moment, and this can be frustrating. Cameras are de!nitely getting better at sticking with your subject, but you’ll generally need to experiment with the autofocus settings to !nd the perfect balance between responsive tracking and sensitivity of focus.

Continuous focus also works better if you have time to stay locked on your subject, as this will give the camera time to detect what it’s focusing on and re!ne the focus. In this photo, I focused on a Steller’s Sea Eagle way up in the sky, stayed locked onto my subject as it darted downwards, and then !red off nine frames as the eagle swooped across the surface of the water and caught the !sh in its talons.

The first and last frames of the series were slightly soft, as the camera identi!ed the new direction in which the subject was now moving, but the seven frames in the middle were all tack sharp. You can see the sea ice in the background too, which is good at stealing focus, but with my selected settings—based on a lot of bird photography over high-contrast sparkly water and sea ice—I’m pretty happy with how the focusing on my Canon EOS 1D X is working.

You will need different settings for different subjects and scenes. My go-to settings are: tracking sensitivity at -1, acceleration/deceleration
tracking at +1 and AF point auto switching at +1. Note that I add these three options to my menu so that I can access and tweak them quickly in the field. I rarely go back to the preset scenes.

With good shooting and focusing techniques, I’ve been nailing focus for years. While I am not advocating that you run out and buy a new camera, I will say that the camera technology improvements in recent years are enabling photographers to achieve better focus more regularly than ever before. During a recent trip to Hokkaido (the day after I shot the Steller’s Sea Eagle photo above), I turned and a White-ailed Eagle was just meters from the boat. I raised the camera and hit the back focus button and mashed down on the shutter button for seven frames. Despite only having a split second to focus, the middle five shots were all tack sharp. This photograph is probably one of my favourites from the trip.

Even with the latest camera bodies, you won’t nail every shot in fast-paced photography, but I’m finding that even in challenging conditions, I’m now hitting focus probably twice as often as I used to (in comparison to the last generation of Canon pro bodies). Of course, I doubt that even the next few generations of cameras will enable us to nail focus every single time, but then there’d be no fun in that would there?

Related Post:
Photography Tips To Make Sharper Images (Part 4: Moving Subjects) by: Martin Bailey
Photography Tips To Make Sharper Images (Part 3: Focus Error) by: Martin Bailey
Photography Tips To Make Sharper Images (Part 2: Subject Movement) by: Martin Bailey
Photography Tips To Make Sharper Images (Part 1: Camera Shake) by: Martin Bailey 

Thursday, April 11, 2013

Photography Tips To Make Sharper Images (Part 3: Focus Error) by: Martin Bailey



If, when you look at your blurred image, you can see something in the foreground or background that is sharp, chances are you missed the focus. This is a common problem when photographing subjects at close distances and shooting with longer focal lengths at wide apertures such as f/2.8, or even f/5.6 or f/8. Of course, using a smaller aperture will help to get more of the subject sharp. However, assuming you want to have fun with shallow depth-of-!eld, let’s think about what can be done to reduce your focus errors.

First, choose the correct focus mode. If your subject isn’t moving around, select One Shot on a Canon, or Single Servo mode on a Nikon camera. This locks the focus when focus is achieved, and keeps it there as long as you half-press the shutter button, or while you hold the back AF button if you use that to focus (another topic we’ll look at later on in this article).

When using a tripod for landscape and still life photography, I generally use the LiveView feature and zoom in to 5X or 10X on the camera’s LCD and manually adjust the focus. Zooming in LiveView is generally activated using the same buttons that you use to zoom in on a photo during playback. This is a great way to achieve critical focus for still subjects, but it doesn’t make much sense when shooting hand-held or for moving subjects.

Another common focusing problem can occur when you have a relatively wide aperture and use the center focus point, and then recompose your photo. It’s much better to manually select one of your camera’s focus points closest to where you want to focus on your subject. Most of the time, if your subject has eyes, you’ll want to focus on them. There are times when you’ll break this rule, but unless you have a good reason to do so, focusing on the eyes with the closest focus point to them will provide the best results.  

Related Post:
Photography Tips To Make Sharper Images (Part 4: Moving Subjects) by: Martin Bailey
Photography Tips To Make Sharper Images (Part 3: Focus Error) by: Martin Bailey
Photography Tips To Make Sharper Images (Part 2: Subject Movement) by: Martin Bailey
Photography Tips To Make Sharper Images (Part 1: Camera Shake) by: Martin Bailey 

Wednesday, April 10, 2013

Photography Tips To Make Sharper Images (Part 2: Subject Movement) by: Martin Bailey



If, when inspecting a blurry image, you can see that some parts of the image are sharp (e.g., the ground around a subject’s feet or the road around a moving car), but your subject itself is blurry, it may well be unwanted subject movement. To overcome this, you will need to increase the shutter speed. How you achieve a faster shutter speed will depend on your chosen shooting mode, but you will generally need to either select a higher ISO to make your sensor more sensitive, or choose a wider aperture to let in more light, or perhaps a combination of the two. If you are in shutter priority mode, select a faster shutter speed and your camera will change the other values for you, as well as let you know when it reaches its limits.

How fast you need to take your shutter speed will depend on the subject, but to freeze a child running around a lawn, you’ll probably want 1/500 of a second or faster. To freeze a large bird in "ight, you’ll want no less than 1/1000, and for smaller birds or fast-paced sports, you may need 1/2000 of a second or faster. You may also !nd that you need to introduce "ash to get shutter speeds this high in lower light situations, assuming that you aren’t using blur creatively.  

Related Post:
Photography Tips To Make Sharper Images (Part 4: Moving Subjects) by: Martin Bailey
Photography Tips To Make Sharper Images (Part 3: Focus Error) by: Martin Bailey
Photography Tips To Make Sharper Images (Part 2: Subject Movement) by: Martin Bailey
Photography Tips To Make Sharper Images (Part 1: Camera Shake) by: Martin Bailey 

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Photography Tips To Make Sharper Images (Part 1: Camera Shake) by: Martin Bailey



If everything in your image is blurred, including any foreground and background objects, it probably means that your camera moved during the exposure. First, ensure that you are supporting your camera properly. If you are shooting with an SLR camera, you’ll be holding the grip with your right hand, your finger placed on the shutter button. Most people find the best way to support the camera with your left hand is to cup your hand under the
lens with your palm facing upwards, and your hand wrapped around the barrel of the lens. This also enables you to zoom the lens, or manually tweak the focus, when necessary. It also really helps to tuck your elbows in to your sides, and, if you know that you are pushing it a bit on the shutter speed, find something solid like a tree or a wall to lean against.

This is a well-known guideline, but just to recap, the golden rule regarding the slowest shutter speeds for hand-held shooting is to use the focal length you are shooting at as the shutter speed. For example, if you are shooting with a 50 mm lens, you will want to use a shutter speed of 1/50 of a second or faster to avoid camera shake. If you are shooting at 200 mm, you will want a shutter speed of 1/200 of a second or higher. The longer the focal length, the faster your shutter speed needs to be.

Image Stabilization (Canon) or Vibration Reduction (Nikon) will also help and usually provides two or more stops of stabilization. If you have three stops of stabilization, you could get away with a shutter speed as low as 1/25 of a second at 200 mm. The problem with going this slow is that you may start to see blur because of subject movement, so the focal-length-as-shutter-speed rule is a good base to work with, but care is still needed.

The most obvious alternative to holding a camera by hand is to use a tripod and, as long as you buy something sturdy enough to hold your gear and withstand a bit of wind, that will certainly help in most cases. There are, however, still many variables to bear in mind, and we’ll look at those in an upcoming Craft & Vision publication.

by: MARTIN BAILEY

Related Post:
Photography Tips To Make Sharper Images (Part 4: Moving Subjects) by: Martin Bailey
Photography Tips To Make Sharper Images (Part 3: Focus Error) by: Martin Bailey
Photography Tips To Make Sharper Images (Part 2: Subject Movement) by: Martin Bailey
Photography Tips To Make Sharper Images (Part 1: Camera Shake) by: Martin Bailey 

MOTOGP RESULT GRAND PRIX OF QATAR (Losail). April 7, 2013. Lorenzo take the first podium, Rossi is Back and Marquez already shine.



MOTOGP RESULT GRAND PRIX OF QATAR (Losail).  April 7, 2013. Lorenzo take the first podium, Rossi is Back and Marquez already shine.

1. Jorge LORENZO    Yamaha    SPA   
2. Valentino ROSSI    Yamaha    ITA   
3. Marc MARQUEZ    Honda    SPA   
4. Dani PEDROSA    Honda    SPA   
5. Cal CRUTCHLOW    Yamaha    GBR   
6. Alvaro BAUTISTA    Honda    SPA
7. Andrea DOVIZIOSO    Ducati    ITA
8. Nicky HAYDEN    Ducati    USA   
9. Andrea IANNONE    Ducati    ITA   
10. Ben SPIES    Ducati    USA   
11. Aleix ESPARGARO    ART    SPA   
12. Randy DE PUNIET    ART    FRA   
13. Hector BARBERA    FTR    SPA   
14. Yonny HERNANDEZ    ART    COL   
15. Hiroshi AOYAMA    FTR    JPN